{"id":1694,"date":"2015-11-29T18:15:50","date_gmt":"2015-11-29T18:15:50","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/fictioninternational.sdsu.edu\/wordpress\/?p=1694"},"modified":"2015-11-29T18:16:56","modified_gmt":"2015-11-29T18:16:56","slug":"harold-jaffes-dispatches-from-india-november-29-2015-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fictioninternational.sdsu.edu\/wordpress\/harold-jaffes-dispatches-from-india-november-29-2015-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Harold Jaffe&#8217;s  <em>Dispatches from India<\/em>  &#8211;  November 29, 2015"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><em><strong>Burn<\/strong><\/em><br \/>\n<strong>Manikarnika* the primary burning ghat in Varanasi<\/strong><br \/>\n<strong> Tourist responses<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>Words<\/strong> can&#8217;t begin to describe experiencing this ghat from a boat on<br \/>\nthe Ganges at sunset. I left knowing I had seen a gateway, primal<br \/>\nand haunting.<\/p>\n<p><strong>See<\/strong> sole of people and there touch in hindu. this is place you forget<br \/>\nyour identity and become a sant.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Genuinely<\/strong> one of the most bizarre experiences of my life. I had<br \/>\nread and heard about it but words cannot possibly sum up the sight,<br \/>\nsounds and smells that surround your visit here. Touts are<br \/>\neverywhere.<\/p>\n<p><strong>If<\/strong> your poor take a swim in the Ganga because your won\u2019t be<br \/>\npermiited to burn. Only for the high caste or very rich.<\/p>\n<p><strong>One<\/strong> of its kind places in world which smells of rotten corpses,<br \/>\ncharred beyond any recognition half burnt bodies, thrown into<br \/>\nGanges. Its a place of blind Faith of people who come here to<br \/>\nrenounce and attain Moksha. THE FUNERAL FIRES HAVE NOT<br \/>\nBEEN doused for over a 1000 Years, with more than 300 bodies<br \/>\nburnt here as per hindu rituals everyday, Polluting the river system.<br \/>\nThis is the place where one forgets one own identity and realizes<br \/>\nthe True Meaning of Life.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Sat<\/strong> here for long hours to see what is life nothing.<\/p>\n<p><strong>It<\/strong> is said that taking bath in Ganga at 12.00 noon will clear you of all<br \/>\nyour evil deals. We followed this tradition and had a bath at 12.00<br \/>\nnoon during our stay here.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Puh<\/strong>, this Ghat is real intense&#8230; i couldn\u00b4t bear the atmosphere!<br \/>\nEverything is full with garbage and mudd, just disgusting&#8230; plus you<br \/>\nsee things you probably wont see&#8230; like a foot out of the burning<br \/>\nfire&#8230;<\/p>\n<p><strong>\u0432\u043e\u0442<\/strong> \u0431\u044b\u0432\u0430\u044e\u0442 \u0434\u043e\u0441\u0442\u043e\u043f\u0440\u0438\u043c\u0435\u0447\u0430\u0442\u0435\u043b\u044c\u043d\u043e\u0441\u0442\u0438 \u043a\u043e\u0442\u043e\u0440\u044b\u0435 \u043a\u0430\u043a \u0431\u044b \u043f\u043e\u0441\u043c\u043e\u0442\u0440\u0435\u043b<br \/>\n\u0438 \u0437\u0430\u0431\u044b\u043b, \u0442\u0435 \u043d\u0435 \u043e\u0441\u0442\u0430\u0432\u0438\u043b\u0438 \u043e\u043d\u0438 \u043d\u0438\u0447\u0435\u0433\u043e \u0432 \u0442\u0435\u0431\u0435, \u0437\u0434\u0435\u0441\u044c \u0436\u0435<br \/>\n\u043f\u0440\u043e\u043d\u0438\u043a\u0430\u0435\u0448\u044c\u0441\u044f \u0430\u0442\u043c\u043e\u0441\u0444\u0435\u0440\u043e\u0439.<\/p>\n<p><strong>This<\/strong> is where life comes to a halt, it was very interesting to see how<br \/>\nthe rituals are performed. While we were out on the visit, there were<br \/>\nalmost more than 15 rituals happening at the ghat. May all the souls<br \/>\nrest in peace.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Intense<\/strong> and slightly mad place. It has a fiery energy, and it attracts<br \/>\ndrunks, stoners, holy men and lunatics.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Why<\/strong>, oh why, would you want to see the last rites of fellow humans?<br \/>\nYes, Hindus burn their dead, but the morbid curiosity that this ghat<br \/>\nevokes is quite nauseating. We asked our boatmen to get us as far<br \/>\naway as he could.<\/p>\n<p><strong>If<\/strong> you&#8217;re really lucky, you may see an aghori sadhu hovering in the<br \/>\nshadows (their temple is nearby), waiting to snatch some ashes of<br \/>\nhuman remains to paint on his skin, signaling to the world that he is<br \/>\nin league with death.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Only<\/strong> men come to the pyre, as women are thought to be too<br \/>\nemotional to view the burning body. (Some ideas could use<br \/>\nupdating!) The oldest son shaves his head and wears white, then<br \/>\nleads the family in placing wood on the fire, sprinkling it with<br \/>\nincense.<\/p>\n<p><strong>A<\/strong> game changing experience.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Seen<\/strong> pyare flaming, what a faith of human being on Ganga river<br \/>\nthat they want to get Ashed away here in want of Nirvana.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Manikarnika<\/strong> Ghat is one of two sites where cremations are<br \/>\nperformed 24\/7 out in the open. The other site (Harishchandra Ghat)<br \/>\ncan be used by other religions or castes; the Manikarnika Ghat is<br \/>\nreserved for Hindus and handles about 65% of the cremations.<br \/>\nCrematiothen for the Hindus constitutes an interaction with the gods<br \/>\nby which the deceased is given to divinity. By burning the dead<br \/>\nbody, the spiritual essence of an individual is released from the<br \/>\nphysical body, hence the cycle of rebirth and death can continue.<br \/>\nFire is associated with purity and power to scare ghosts and<br \/>\ndemons. The eldest son walks around the shrouded body five times,<br \/>\nsprinkles Ganges water across the body, puts sandalwood on it then<br \/>\nlights the fire. It takes a few hours for the whole body to be con-<br \/>\nsumed, amidst a crowd of mourners, a cow chewing on leftover<br \/>\nflowers and dogs fighting over a human (?) bone.<\/p>\n<p><strong>This<\/strong> place is neat and lot of rituals are going on for the dead and<br \/>\nfore parents. River ganga is in her full majesty and had a nice bath.<br \/>\nOne has to be careful with their belongings and toots.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Buddha<\/strong> instructed his disciples to spend sometime in a<br \/>\ncrematorium just to detach oneself with the belief that one is body<br \/>\nand this ghat is an ideal place to do that. wish it was cleaner and<br \/>\nmore organised to handle visitors.<\/p>\n<p><strong>The<\/strong> pyre is burning round the clock, If you are lucky you can spot a<br \/>\nAghori sadhu on the ghats, They meditate on the burning ghats. A<br \/>\nmoving experience to see the beliefs and to get remainded That we<br \/>\nall are heading to the end by the day.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Of<\/strong> all the ghats in Varanasi, MaNikarnika stands distinct eliciting<br \/>\nawe and great respect. This is where human bodies are disposed<br \/>\noff. Generally they are cremated, except in five cases&#8211;kids under<br \/>\nfive, pregnant women, those died of cobra venom, those who<br \/>\ncommitted suicide, and the low caste, their bodies are tossed into<br \/>\nGanga tied to a stone. Its really a wonder how the dead bodies don&#8217;t<br \/>\ncontaminate the river.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Manikarnika<\/strong> ghat, where human being is torched by their loved<br \/>\nones! We come out of this place with heavy heart, rather our feel<br \/>\nsorry for the departed as well as left behind.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Due<\/strong> to the incessant begging, there was just no way we could feel a<br \/>\npart of the experience of watching the pyres and the grieving<br \/>\nprocess of such an incredible culture, which was the entire point of<br \/>\ngoing to Varanasi.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Watch<\/strong> life and death go by with such ease, its such a though<br \/>\nprovoking space. I could spend hours there just observing and<br \/>\nsoaking in everything and I don&#8217;t mean it in a sad way at all.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Quasi<\/strong> come se la morte avesse pi\u00f9 valore della vita.<\/p>\n<p><strong>It<\/strong> is STRICTLY FORBIDDEN to take pictures in this place even from<br \/>\nother ghats. When I was there, the relatives of one dead smashed<br \/>\nthe camera of a Japanese man Who was taking pictures.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Those<\/strong> who visited varanasi first time should go to the Manikarnika<br \/>\nghat, have bath and had darshan of the Lord Manikarneeshwar, the<br \/>\ntemple in this ghat, then only should perform Main Kashi<br \/>\nVishwanath darshan.<\/p>\n<p><strong>24<\/strong> hrs burning ghat&#8211;Hindu ritual&#8211;visit only if you can handle or<br \/>\nmove two ghats further to enjoy your cafe latte in jukaso ganges.<\/p>\n<p><strong>He<\/strong> told me give a &#8220;donation.&#8221; I told him I had no money to give him<br \/>\nand he called me a liar and insisted I pay a &#8220;donation&#8221;. He followed<br \/>\nme for a couple mins before I lost my temper and started screaming<br \/>\nat him. By that time some Indian people started to stare and then he<br \/>\nleft. A well dressed Indian man who was observing told me he was a<br \/>\nregular scammer hanging out by the burning ghat trying to get<br \/>\nmoney from the tourists and that the money rarely go to the hands<br \/>\nof where it is needed for wood.<\/p>\n<p><strong>This<\/strong> is not a tourist place but a place of attraction.<br \/>\nHindus burn their bodies here when someone dies.<br \/>\nThe whole thing happens before you when you see the body<br \/>\ntransforming to ash, light, heat, moisture and air.<br \/>\nIt means human body consists of the five elements and it is again<br \/>\nrecycled or reassimilated into five elements.<\/p>\n<p><strong>must<\/strong> visit for them who want to see the reality of human body when<br \/>\nit comes to end and the body for which we care so much. Hindus<br \/>\nbelieve that death is the last truth of this world.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Na<\/strong> miesta, ak\u00e9 je toto nem\u00f4\u017ee \u010dlovek nap\u00edsa\u0165 PEKN\u00da recenziu.<br \/>\nPohrebn\u00e9 miesta v Indii maj\u00fa in\u00e9 krit\u00e9rium na to, aby &#8220;z\u00edskali 5<br \/>\nhviezdi\u010diek&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>*<strong>Advisable<\/strong> not to visit the place on a full tummy.<\/p>\n<p>\u706b\u846c\u5834\u306e\u30ac\u30fc\u30c8\u3067\u3059\u3002\u8fba\u308a\u306b\u306f\u305f\u304f\u3055\u3093\u306e\u85aa\u304c\u7a4d\u307e\u308c\u3066\u304a\u308a\u3001\u7159\u304c\u6f02\u3063\u3066\u3044\u307e\u3057\u305f\u3002\u3053\u3053\u6b7b<br \/>\n\u8005\u3092\u706b\u846c\u306b\u3057\u3066\u7070\u306f\u30ac\u30f3\u30b8\u30b9\u6cb3\u306b\u6d41<\/p>\n<p><strong>Truly<\/strong> worthy place for mochhya here.maximum person came kashi<br \/>\nfor mochhya,and he want that his last time spend in kashi and after<br \/>\ndeath his body last fireup here.Very calm place is this manikarnika<br \/>\nghat. Some problem about garbage and not so clean but overall<br \/>\ngood.<\/p>\n<p><strong>I<\/strong> approached this Ghat via walkways and lanes which are also close<br \/>\nto &#8220;Blue Lassi&#8217; (well worth a visit, best fruit lassi)<\/p>\n<p><strong>This<\/strong> is the dark hart of the city, where dogs and monkeys sorround<br \/>\nthe caretakers of death.<\/p>\n<p><strong>We<\/strong> had been walking along the ghats from the southern end<br \/>\nwere taking photos as we went, when all of a sudden, out of no-<br \/>\nwhere, we were confronted by a group of men. One shouted, &#8221; You<br \/>\nhave taken photos of cremation! You must pay dishonour money.<\/p>\n<p><strong>I<\/strong> stayed in Mishra Guest House which is near to this ghat. In the<br \/>\nevening there is a chaiwala serving lemon team for just Rs. 5. The<br \/>\ntea is awesome.<\/p>\n<p><strong>P<\/strong>ortal to the Infinite.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Pour<\/strong> nous occidentaux il faut se pr\u00e9parer et alors nous sommes en<br \/>\ncommunion avec ce ritual.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Highly<\/strong> recommend to adults to get a deferent sense of death. Not<br \/>\nfor children. This is death unvarnished and real&#8211;not a Disney movie,<br \/>\nokay?<\/p>\n<p><strong>He<\/strong> asked for a donation to help the poor buy wood for their pyres<br \/>\n(we were astounded by how much wood is needed and used &#8211; not<br \/>\nenvironmentally friendly at all!)<\/p>\n<p><strong>I<\/strong> went there three times and now looking back the Hindus there are<br \/>\nall trying to scam you<\/p>\n<p><strong>Es<\/strong> gibt hier auch keinerlei \u00fcble Ger\u00fcche, da das Holz sehr heiss<br \/>\nbrennt.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Nobody<\/strong> should visit this place randomly withought any goal. Only<br \/>\nspiritual seekers should go and witness the rituals to gain deeper<br \/>\ninsights about life and beyond&#8230;<\/p>\n<p><strong>I<\/strong> watch the mummy corpse of an old woman shrouded in red and<br \/>\nblack cloth and set on a bamboo bed. If someone peeled away the<br \/>\nwrapping what I\u2019d see would be the crumbling form of the goddess<br \/>\nKali.<\/p>\n<p><strong>*These comments were originally posted in TripAdvisor. I\u2019ve torqued &amp; treated<br \/>\nthem into serving a higher purpose<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/jaffeantijaffe.sdsu.edu\/\">http:\/\/jaffeantijaffe.sdsu.edu\/<\/a><br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/jaffeantijaffe\">https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/jaffeantijaffe<\/a><br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/haroldjaffe.wordpress.com\/\">http:\/\/haroldjaffe.wordpress.com\/<\/a><br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/fictioninternational.sdsu.edu\/\">http:\/\/fictioninternational.sdsu.edu\/<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Burn Manikarnika* the primary burning ghat in Varanasi Tourist responses Words can&#8217;t begin to describe experiencing this ghat from a boat on the Ganges at sunset. I left knowing I had seen a gateway, primal and haunting. See sole of people and there touch in hindu. this is place you forget your identity and become [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1694","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-uncategorized"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/fictioninternational.sdsu.edu\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1694","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/fictioninternational.sdsu.edu\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/fictioninternational.sdsu.edu\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fictioninternational.sdsu.edu\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fictioninternational.sdsu.edu\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1694"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/fictioninternational.sdsu.edu\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1694\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1696,"href":"https:\/\/fictioninternational.sdsu.edu\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1694\/revisions\/1696"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/fictioninternational.sdsu.edu\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1694"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fictioninternational.sdsu.edu\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1694"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fictioninternational.sdsu.edu\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1694"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}