{"id":1686,"date":"2015-11-25T19:50:29","date_gmt":"2015-11-25T19:50:29","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/fictioninternational.sdsu.edu\/wordpress\/?p=1686"},"modified":"2015-11-25T19:50:29","modified_gmt":"2015-11-25T19:50:29","slug":"harold-jaffes-dispatches-from-india-november-25-2015","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fictioninternational.sdsu.edu\/wordpress\/harold-jaffes-dispatches-from-india-november-25-2015\/","title":{"rendered":"Harold Jaffe&#8217;s  <em>Dispatches from India<\/em>  &#8211;  November 25, 2015"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><em><strong>Ganges Dusk<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n<p>Wake up to drums and loud chanting.<br \/>\n6:20 AM. Is it a dream?<br \/>\nHere one wakes from dream into dream.<br \/>\nEvery other day is a holy day in Kashi.<br \/>\nAnother devotional festival.<br \/>\nToday is Dev Diwali.<\/p>\n<p>But didn\u2019t we celebrate Diwali, Festival of Lights, just a few<br \/>\ndays ago?<br \/>\nThat Diwali was devoted to the goddess Lakshmi, Lord Vishnu\u2019s<br \/>\nconsort.<br \/>\nDev Diwali is devoted to Lord Shiva\u2019s victory over the demon<br \/>\nTripurasur.<\/p>\n<p>On Dev Diwali, which always coincides with a full moon, devotees<br \/>\ntake a bath and\/or a boat ride in the Ganga, light oil lamps, called<br \/>\nDiyas, do puja, set off fireworks, and make lots of noise.<br \/>\nDevotional noise.<br \/>\nWhen the sun sets, the steps of all the Ghats and temples are alight<br \/>\nwith Diyas, milllions of them.<br \/>\nMillions?<br \/>\nYes. Everything becomes exponential in India.<\/p>\n<p>It is Dev Diwali, full moon, and I\u2019m in an old open boat on the sacred<br \/>\nGanga.<br \/>\nAs soon as the moon comes up in the east through the mist the<br \/>\ndrums start romping and the oil lamps are lit on each of the 87 ghats<br \/>\nfrom south to north.<br \/>\nEverywhere is elaborately patterned bright light.<br \/>\nExcept for the two burning ghats which continue cremating corpses,<br \/>\nsmoke curling over the Ganga.<br \/>\nFire and water are the two dominant elements for devotional Hindus.<\/p>\n<p>The east where the moon rises is composed of a single sandbar,<br \/>\nconstruction prohibited because it would interfere with viewing the<br \/>\nthe sunrise.<br \/>\nThe Mughals ruled India for nearly 200 years, did not worship the<br \/>\nGanga, and razed most of the ancient temples and other Hindu<br \/>\nstructures on the western ghats.<br \/>\nIt is a surprise that they did not erect their own structures on the<br \/>\nwide empty sandbar.<\/p>\n<p>The moon is full.<br \/>\nChanting, music, fireworks, millions of oil lamps and a million or<br \/>\nmore souls on each of the 87 ghats raucously celebrating.<br \/>\nThough Lord Shiva is nominally the subject of Dev Diwali, I do not<br \/>\nhear his name invoked in the chants.<\/p>\n<p>I think of carnival among the impoverished, in the Brazil favelas for<br \/>\nexample.<br \/>\nA week of sensual-samba-masquerade-mania a year, then back to<br \/>\nshitty bad-paying work, or no work at all.<br \/>\nIn the holy Hindu city of Kashi, the carnival (without the sensuality of<br \/>\ncourse) goes on throughout the year, so that devotion is turned into<br \/>\nan opiate which keeps the millions of impoverished and low-castes<br \/>\nperpetually celebrating.<br \/>\nThen they go home to their squalor.<\/p>\n<p>I notice how many of the poor celebrants snap photos with their<br \/>\nmobile, fulfilling the Prime Minister\u2019s extravagant lunacy of elevating<br \/>\nthe afterimage in the process of digitalizing India.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/jaffeantijaffe.sdsu.edu\/\">http:\/\/jaffeantijaffe.sdsu.edu\/<\/a><br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/jaffeantijaffe\">https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/jaffeantijaffe<\/a><br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/haroldjaffe.wordpress.com\/\">http:\/\/haroldjaffe.wordpress.com\/<\/a><br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/fictioninternational.sdsu.edu\/\">http:\/\/fictioninternational.sdsu.edu\/<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Ganges Dusk Wake up to drums and loud chanting. 6:20 AM. Is it a dream? Here one wakes from dream into dream. Every other day is a holy day in Kashi. Another devotional festival. Today is Dev Diwali. But didn\u2019t we celebrate Diwali, Festival of Lights, just a few days ago? That Diwali was devoted [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1686","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-uncategorized"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/fictioninternational.sdsu.edu\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1686","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/fictioninternational.sdsu.edu\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/fictioninternational.sdsu.edu\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fictioninternational.sdsu.edu\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fictioninternational.sdsu.edu\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1686"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/fictioninternational.sdsu.edu\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1686\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1687,"href":"https:\/\/fictioninternational.sdsu.edu\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1686\/revisions\/1687"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/fictioninternational.sdsu.edu\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1686"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fictioninternational.sdsu.edu\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1686"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fictioninternational.sdsu.edu\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1686"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}